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Ecological Systems and Devices

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Method and some results of directional spectra estimations of random waves field in the coastal zone
Трубкин И.П.

The new method of spectral estimation at high resolutions in both frequency and direction spaces is suggested and described. The possibilities of the method are demonstrated on the example of field measured data. It is established that in the surf zone wave energy is distributed in frequency bands of wind waves, swell and infragravity waves. The infragravity wave energy grows while as depth decrease or wind wave intensity grows. By using additional transform, described in the text of paper, it is shown that infragravity waves generation is provided by nonlinear effects, determined by small depth and finitesimal wide of wave spectrum at the seaward boundary of the coastal zone.

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